Gross → Net Wall Area
1,134sq ft
Gross 1,350 − deductions.
Measure The House, Buy Once
Calculate exactly how much exterior paint, primer, and prep supplies you need, and find out if you should rent a sprayer or roll by hand.
Free estimator. Runs locally in your browser. No signup required.
Start from a common house profile, then edit the dimensions and siding settings to match your exact home.
Walk the house with a tape measure and add up the four walls. Guessing the perimeter by “about the length of the street” is how people end up three gallons short on a Saturday.
Total of all four exterior walls.
Sets the average wall height used in the area math.
Rougher surfaces drink more paint — the math adjusts for it.
Each deducts ~21 sq ft.
Each deducts ~15 sq ft.
Spraying adds ~20% for overspray and wind loss.
Estimates update automatically as you type. Base coverage is 350 sq ft/gal, adjusted for siding porosity and application method — always check your can’s label.
Gross → Net Wall Area
1,134sq ft
Gross 1,350 − deductions.
Exterior Primer
2gal
Spot-prime bare and peeling areas.
Exterior Paint (2 coats)
8gal
Adjusted for porosity and method.
Method Verdict
Roll & brushRolling and brushing is manageable here.
Prep Supply Counts
6 caulk tubes · 3 film rolls · 13 drop cloths
Caulk per 30 lin ft · film per 4 windows · 12×15 cloths per 12 lin ft.
Pro Notes
The schedule has rest days on purpose. Paint applied over a damp wall or rushed prep fails in months, not years.
Exterior-specific supplies, in paint-aisle order. Quantities match this house’s math.
The pressure washer feels like the pro move, and it is the most common way DIYers wreck a paint job before it starts. At 2,000-plus PSI the stream drives water behind vinyl and lap siding, where it sits against the sheathing and rots things you will not see for two years. It also furs wood fibers and blasts off paint that was still bonded, doubling your scraping work.
The contractor way is boring and it works: garden hose, TSP or a dedicated house wash, and a soft-bristle car-wash brush on an extension pole. Scrub top-down, rinse, and let it dry. If you absolutely need a pressure washer for grime or mildew, keep it under about 600 PSI with a wide 40-degree fan tip, hold the wand moving, and never aim up under siding laps. While the house dries, it is a decent weekend to knock out other exterior wood — our deck and fence material calculator sizes stain for those projects the same afternoon.
Rub your palm flat across the wall in a few spots and look at your hand. A light dusty film means the paint is chalking — weathering, but still serviceable after a good rinse. Heavy chalk that covers your palm means the binder is breaking down, and paint rolled over chalk sits on powder and flakes off with the next hard winter.
Chalking paint needs a thorough wash and a bonding primer before anything else goes on top. No topcoat fixes a failing substrate; it just delays the callback. Do the test on each wall separately — south-facing walls chalk years faster than the north side of the same house, and they often need different prep.
Airless rentals run roughly forty to eighty dollars a day, and a sprayer puts two coats on a house in the time rolling takes to finish one. The honest catch: masking takes hours, cleanup takes another hour of flushing the pump, and overspray does not respect property lines — cover your neighbor’s car even when the wind looks calm, because wind changes mid-pass.
The honest verdict: on stucco, brick, or houses over about 2,000 square feet, the sprayer earns its rental fee because rollers fight texture all day. On smooth vinyl under 1,500 square feet, rolling is slower but cheaper and more forgiving for a first-timer. The middle ground — textured wood at 1,500 to 2,000 square feet — comes down to whether you value your weekend or your rental fee. And if the power blinks mid-project, our home generator size calculator sizes backup power for the washer and sprayer.
Scrape only what wants to come off. A carbide scraper pulled flat along the siding removes loose paint without gouging, and you stop when you reach paint that is stuck. Feather the edges with 80-grit so the transition disappears under the new coat, and wipe the dust.
Then the order that actually holds: caulk the gaps first, let the caulk skin over, spot-prime every bare wood and bare metal spot with exterior bonding primer, and let the primer dry fully before body paint. Priming over caulk seals both at once; caulk over paint is a peel waiting to happen. Bare wood left unprimed under topcoat drinks the paint unevenly and flashes dull patches in raking light forever.
Paint on a sun-baked wall dries before it levels. The brush and roller marks set in place, the film skins before it bonds, and the lap marks show from the street. Work the shade around the house: east walls in the afternoon, west walls in the morning, and take the south wall early or late.
Watch the conditions, not the calendar: air and surface between 50 and 90 degrees, no rain forecast within 24 hours, and stop early enough that the coat sets before evening dew settles on it. Dew on uncured paint leaves a shiny, sticky film that no amount of second-coating fixes cleanly. Those forced drying hours are a good time to plan the interior rooms that are next — our interior room paint estimator sizes those gallons while you wait on the weather. And if the project includes opening up exterior walls, size the cooling for the new layout with our room AC BTU calculator.
Start with 2,000 ÷ 350 sq ft/gal × 2 coats — about 11–12 gallons. Then add for the surface: smooth vinyl runs near that number, textured wood lap adds ~15%, porous stucco or brick adds 30%+, and spraying adds another 20% for overspray. This estimator runs all of those adjustments from your actual perimeter and siding.
Just the bare spots in most cases. Scrape and sand the failing areas, then spot-prime bare wood, bare metal, and heavily chalked spots with exterior bonding primer. Full-house priming is worth it on porous masonry, over chalk that will not rinse off, or when making a drastic color change. Priming sound, well-adhered paint is mostly wasted money.
Not much darker, no. Dark colors absorb solar heat, and vinyl expands and warps when hot — buckled panels and wavy walls. Stay within a shade or two of the original color and use paints labeled vinyl-safe, which use reflective pigments. Ask the paint counter for vinyl-safe color cards before choosing.
Give it 24–48 hours of dry weather, longer for porous stucco, rough wood, or shaded north walls. Paint over trapped moisture and it blisters and peels within a season. Unsure? Tape a piece of plastic to the wall for an hour — condensation under it means wait another day.
Most exterior paints want air and surface temperatures between 50 and 90°F, ideally with humidity under 70%. Paint when the wall surface is in shade, not just the air, and stop early enough for the coat to set before evening dew. Do not paint if rain is expected within 24 hours.
Mask windows with pre-taped masking film before any spraying, drape lightweight plastic over shrubs near the wall, and move or cover cars, grills, and patio furniture. Check wind before spraying — over 10–15 mph and overspray reaches your neighbor’s car whether you meant it to or not.
No, and stripping sound paint creates more problems than it solves. Remove only what is loose, peeling, or blistering, then sand the edges so the transition feathers into the surrounding paint. Firmly bonded paint is a good base for a new coat. Scrape to stability, not to bare wood.
Quick method: trim, soffits, and fascia typically add about 15% to the paintable wall area — exactly what this estimator applies when you check the trim box. For a precise count, measure linear feet of trim and multiply by its width in feet, then order trim as its own small order since accent colors usually come in gallons and quarts.
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