Total Square Footage
0sq ft
12 ft × 12 ft footprint.
Outdoor Build Estimator
Estimate the exact lumber, concrete, and fasteners you need for your next outdoor project.
Free calculator. Runs in your browser. No signup required.
Start from a common project, then adjust the numbers to match your build.
Composite decking often requires 12″ spacing — check the manufacturer’s spec.
Diagonal patterns look great but create more angled cuts and waste.
Standard 1×6 / 2×6 pickets are about 5.5″ wide.
0″ for full privacy, 1″+ for spaced styles. Remember wood swells when wet.
Results also update automatically as you type. Saving keeps your inputs on this device only — nothing is sent anywhere.
CALL 811 BEFORE YOU DIG! Hitting an underground utility line can cause severe injury, death, and massive fines. Always call your local utility locating service a few days before digging post holes.
Total Square Footage
0sq ft
12 ft × 12 ft footprint.
Deck Boards Needed
0boards
Assumes 16 ft boards, 10% waste factor.
Joists & Rim Joists
0joists
Plus 0 rim joist boards (2×8 or 2×10, 16 ft stock).
Support Posts
0posts
4×4 or 6×6 posts on an ~8 ft grid. Footings below your frost line.
Concrete Needed
0bags
50 lb bags — assumes ~1.5 bags per post footing.
Fasteners
0boxes
0 exterior deck screws, or ~0 hidden-clip kits as an alternative.
Notes & Warnings
This tool provides general estimates for planning purposes only. Always consult local building codes and structural requirements, verify quantities at your lumberyard, and design elevated or complex decks with professional help.
Generated from your current inputs with real quantities. Use it as a starting point and confirm sizes and grades at the lumberyard.
Deck estimating follows a reliable order, and this calculator walks it for you:
Pressure-treated wood is the budget classic: inexpensive, easy to cut, and structurally forgiving. The trade-off is maintenance — it needs sealing or staining every few years and will eventually split or warp. Cedar and redwood look beautiful and resist rot naturally, at a higher price with similar upkeep. Composite decking costs the most up front but needs almost no maintenance, resists splinters and fading, and often carries long warranties — though it requires tighter joist spacing (usually 12″) and can run hot in direct sun. A common middle path is a pressure-treated frame with composite boards on top.
The reliable rule is one-third of the post’s above-ground height, plus extra in cold climates: a 6 ft fence wants roughly 2 ft of post in the ground. In regions with deep frost, your local code may require deeper holes to get below the frost line. Dig the hole about three times the post’s width, add a few inches of gravel for drainage, set the post plumb, and pour concrete. Corner and gate posts take the most strain, so many builders use larger posts or deeper settings there.
Joist spacing controls how far each deck board can span between supports. Sixteen inches on center is the traditional standard for wood decking; composite boards are less stiff and usually need 12 inches. Wider spacing saves lumber but risks bouncy, saggy boards and voids some decking warranties. Just as important are the connectors: joist hangers, post bases, and structural screws are rated for loads that toe-nailing and plain screws are not. On anything elevated, these details are the difference between a deck that lasts decades and one that fails.
For a typical 6-foot fence with a 4x4 post set about 2 feet deep in a 10 to 12 inch diameter hole, plan on roughly 1.5 to 2 bags of 50 lb concrete mix per post. Deeper holes below your local frost line, wider holes, or tall 8-foot fences push you toward the higher end. Gate posts take extra strain, so many builders size them up and give them more concrete.
It depends on where you live. Many areas require permits for decks attached to a house or higher than about 30 inches off the ground, while ground-level floating decks are sometimes exempt. Fences usually have height limits and setback rules, and HOAs often add their own requirements. Always check with your local building department before you start.
16 inches on center is the standard for most wood decking. Composite decking often requires 12 inches on center because the boards are less stiff, and some structural decking allows 24 inches. Always confirm the maximum joist spacing recommended by your decking manufacturer before framing.
Both work when they are exterior rated. Galvanized ring-shank nails are fast — especially with a coil nailer — and hold pickets well. Deck or structural screws grip better and are easier to remove for repairs, which makes them popular for rails and gates. Whichever you choose, use hot-dipped galvanized or coated fasteners to prevent rust streaks.
The best defense is to keep wood off direct soil contact. Set posts on concrete footings using metal post bases or anchors, add gravel at the bottom for drainage, and use lumber rated for ground contact where needed. Flashing and proper water drainage around the footing also add years of life.
811 is the national call-before-you-dig number in the United States. A few days before digging post holes or footings, you call 811 and your local utility locating service marks buried gas, water, electric, and communication lines for free. Hitting an underground line can cause severe injury, death, service outages, and large fines — never skip this step.
A good rule of thumb is 10 percent extra lumber for straightforward straight layouts, 15 percent for diagonal decking with more angled cuts, and about 5 percent for fence pickets. Odd-shaped spaces, many cuts, or lower-grade lumber with knots all justify buying a little more.
Ground-level or floating decks are possible, but the framing should not sit directly on soil. Use concrete deck blocks or footings, ground-contact rated lumber, a gravel base for drainage, and good airflow under the deck. Boards and joists that touch wet soil continuously will rot quickly.
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